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- #The tube store vs tube depot mod#
- #The tube store vs tube depot manual#
- #The tube store vs tube depot mods#
I took many pictures and made lots of notes in my build notebook. And of course, I'm happy to help in any way I can.
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What's helpful is that Rob Hull has a lot of respect for Rob Robinette, so they're instructions and suggestions rarely conflict. If you haven't done so already, I would read his "How the 5E3 Works" before starting your build.
#The tube store vs tube depot mods#
Also, retired Air Force major Rob Robinette will chime in if you get stuck and also has a great amp site with two 5E3 articles that were invaluable to me - How the 5E3 Works ( ) and also 5E3 Mods ( ).
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User "Snowy" took some great pictures and well documented his Tube Depot builds, which I saved to my computer and referred to often. The instructions are clear and you have some great resources here. Rob Hull has gone out on his own and they don't really have anyone to give tech support. They did a great job of keeping the accounting straight - with the appropriate credits and charges.īeware, though, that is just about all the support you will get from Tube Depot. (It arrived in three waves over the course of a week or so.) I made some tube and transformer substitutions, and also left out the speaker because I had my own. Tube Depot shipped it on-time and kept me posted on which parts were being shipped and when. Rob Hull did a fantastic job designing the kit and writing the instructions. The PCB in this kit is really well made (much better than what comes stock in a production amp from Fender). I think Tube Depot's kit is a great first amp build. Whoever makes them does excellent cab work. I was really impressed with the cab, they do a great job on those, really beautifully made, finger-jointed Pine and perfectly Tweeded and authentic. Any time you spend doing this now and finding/re-doing a poor connection will save you ten-fold and some hair tearing, once you have it all together and powered on and then having to find the same problem at that stage. It takes a little time but it will help reinforce in your mind what is connecting to what and serve as a final OK check before moving to the next stage. The low end on this amp does hold together solid though, it doesn't fart out, aided by the GZ34 Rectifier.Īnyway, good plan on taking your time, if you haven't already, I'd suggest going over each connection starting at one end of the board with a beep/continuity tester, working with a printed copy of the layout mark off each connection on the layout with a highlighter as it tests "good" for continuity from component leg to component leg. Interesting he thought about boosting the Bass because as he points out the amp has enough low end by design, it might have made more sense to do a low-cut option as that can be handy if a player finds the lows are fine with his Strat but too woofy with his Humbucker equipped guitar. Great that you got a reply from Rob Hull, I've had several email exchanges with him and he comes across as a great guy and very helpful. My suggestion would be to ignore it, build the amp as instructed with no mods and get it up and running nicely, it's a great sounding amp, then tweak if needed/desired. Hopefully you can get a reply from him on it.
#The tube store vs tube depot mod#
Doesn't seem like Rob documented or talked about it either so maybe it was something else he had planned "to do", got the last batch of PCB's with the option printed on them but just got sidetracked, never got around to implementing the documentation etc, and now has left the Tube Depot, who knows, maybe it was his idea of having a joke/fun and there actually is no mod and that's why the printed component location/sizing looks so small? Examples I've built were an earlier revision of the kit (vs.3.1) and didn't even have that 1A section on the board.
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I'm only guessing and supposing on this though and the component/printed sizing seems wrong for a cap and resistor (maybe that was a mistake), although the printed shapes look right. This gives a tight midrange response without being too bright. Good values to choose would be 2.7K ohms for the resistor and. Solder the now empty pin 3 of V1 to a separate capacitor and Start by soldering pin 8 to the C3 / R9 circuit By separating pin 3Īnd pin 8 from V1 and assigning each their own cathode circuit, additional tone Pin 8 and pin 3 share a cathode bypass resistor and capacitor.
#The tube store vs tube depot manual#
Skip, I wonder if it's related to the mod Rob talks about in mod tips "No 6" in the build manual and then he later decided to use that available section of the board conveniently located right next to the C3/R9 cathode circuit to provide a mount location for the cap and resistor and a connecting wire from pin 3 of V1? (see extracted description below)Ħ.